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���:
The Birth Of A New
Taipei
Citizen pressure has created a clean, green city
By Mahlon Meyer
NEWSWEEK INTERNATIONAL
March 12 issue �X There��s more than one way to appreciate a tree.
On a recent Saturday morning, as he leads 25 parents and
schoolchildren along a street next to Taipei��s Ta-An Forest Park,
Jerome Su stops before a flowering sweet-gum tree.
HE CRUSHES AN aromatic leaf between his fingers, then holds it to
the nose of a young boy so he can smell the musky scent. ��People
used to feel that trees should be cut down for economic
development,�� says the 50-year-old publisher, pointing to the base
of the tree. Cracked and gnarled, the trunk struggles through the
layers of concrete wrapped around its base. ��Now we��ve got to
learn how to preserve them. We��ll have to get up a petition.��
The fact that his
class even has a tree to examine has much to do with people like Su,
whose activism has helped remake the Taiwanese capital in the last
decade. Once one of the most chaotic cities in Asia, Taipei is now
ranked at the top of regional livability surveys. Less than 10 years
ago, the whole eastern section of town was little more than a fetid
garbage dump. Now luxury shopping malls, cinemas and high-rise
apartment buildings fill the area. City lanes once choked with
traffic flow smoothly at all but peak hours. Forbidding government
buildings have been transformed into museums, literary salons and
galleries. The changes are remarkable�Xall the more so because they
have been driven primarily by Taipei��s residents. Says Diane Ying,
publisher of Commonwealth, Taiwan��s leading business magazine,
��The city now belongs to the citizens and not the bureaucrats.��
To the casual visitor, places like Singapore and Hong Kong remain
more striking in their sleek modernity. But no other city in Asia
has changed as radically as Taipei in the last decade. Ten years ago
it often took more than an hour to cross the city by car. Streets
were clogged by tens of thousands of motorcycles and scooters, their
riders wearing surgical masks to block out the smog. Those living on
the outskirts of the city often left home at 6 a.m. in order to
reach work before 9. Now 40 percent of Taipei��s citizens use the
subway, which opened last year, and the average person spends 24
minutes commuting each day. That has drastically reduced the number
of vehicles on the roads�Xalthough motorcycles are still
inescapable�Xand made the air breathable. In the past seven years,
the level of suspended particles in the air has dropped almost 50
percent.
Rising incomes have contributed to the improvement in living
conditions. (Per capita income has doubled over the past decade to
more than $13,000.) But the city��s transformation has also been
fueled by the same forces that have driven Taiwan��s democratic
reforms. As native-born Taiwanese took control of the government,
they began to treat the capital as home, rather than simply a pit
stop on the way to retaking China. With the lifting of martial law
in 1987, a whole generation of Taiwanese, educated abroad, began to
return and try to raise Taipei to international standards. A
burgeoning middle class had more time for leisure, which created
pressure for more parks, modern cinemas and cleaner streets.
Students who had spent their energy clashing with police over
politics gradually turned to environmental issues. ��During the
1980s the voice of an emerging civil society started to be heard,��
says Hsia Chu-joe, an urban-planning professor.
More recently Taipei��s citizens have begun to push the government
to upgrade the city��s infrastructure. In the 1990s a coalition of
NGOs pressured authorities into creating Ta-An Forest Park, instead
of a sports stadium, on the 26,000-hectare site of a slum where Army
veterans once lived among rats and stray dogs. The sprawling, $9
billion subway system, begun in 1987 and plagued by delays and
charges of corruption, would likely not have been completed had
civic groups not insisted on the project. Current president Chen
Shui-bian was elected the city��s mayor in 1994 largely because of
his promises to respond to citizens�� demands to reduce traffic. He
created bus lanes on most thoroughfares and sent squadrons of
traffic police to every major intersection.
City dwellers have taken new responsibilities upon themselves, too.
When Chen was first elected, piles of garbage lay on every major
city street. Collection was haphazard, and rats, cockroaches and
packs of stray dogs were attracted to the refuse. In coordination
with citizens�� groups, Chen instituted a policy that ��garbage
shall not touch the ground.�� Citizens began to wait patiently
every night, trash in hand, for a new fleet of garbage trucks to
stop at their corner. As they waited, neighbors who had never met
began to chat, and the nightly garbage collection became the first
form of urban community many citizens�Xsome of whom had moved in
from the countryside�Xhad known.
Similarly, a new culture of civility has grown alongside the cleaner
streets and more efficient transportation systems. City
thoroughfares now boast broad sidewalks where people no longer
jostle each other. Inside high-ceilinged subway stations, people who
once fought to cram onto rickety, undependable city buses now line
up calmly before the trains. A plethora of bookstores and coffee
shops has fostered an atmosphere of sophistication.
At the same time, the freedoms driving its renaissance have made
Taipei a cultural mecca for artists in the Chinese-speaking world.
The city represents Asia��s most profitable market for
Chinese-language music CDs, although piracy is drastically eating
away at artists�� earnings. Taiwanese sitcoms and soap operas are
among the most popular in mainland China. Taipei boasts thousands of
publishing houses, compared with 500 in all of China. And Chinese
writers, including the first to win the Nobel Prize for Literature,
Gao Xingjian, vie to have their books published in arguably the
world��s freest Chinese city. ��For someone who writes in
Chinese,�� Gao said on a visit to Taipei in January, the city is
��truly home.��
Not everyone is pleased with Taipei��s shiny new exterior, of
course. Young Internet entrepreneurs, some of them among the
island��s IT elite, have blasted plans to raze the Kwanghua Arcade,
an underground mall jam-packed with computers, peripherals and
pirated software. (Neighbors are insisting that the stalls be
relocated into a cleaner shopping center�Xin another part of town.)
They fear that the arcade��s atmosphere of creative chaos will be
lost in the gentrification. ��Think of it this way,�� says David
Chen, the founder of IO Net, a popular electronic community. ��The
more concentrated things are, the more efficient they are, like the
motherboard of a computer.��
Nor has Taipei eliminated the domestic problems inherent in any
large city. Last year police recorded 56 murders, 184 rapes and more
than 32,000 burglaries in the city. But Taipei��s rebirth at least
presents an example for the mainland��s own overcrowded,
smog-choked metropolises. As his class wanders down a flower-filled
alley near Ta-An park, Su points out a profusion of purple wisteria
tumbling over the glass shards atop a cement wall. ��Like trees and
flowers, people need the right environment,�� he says. ��As long
as the government doesn��t interfere too much, they will find their
own space.�� And with luck, make it their own.
© 2001 Newsweek, Inc.
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